Deviled eggs (Photo courtesy Yelp) ★★½.Cuisine: American.When: Lunch and dinner, every day.Details: Beer and wine. Prices: About $18 per person. Challenging the grand poobahs of French dip sandwiches here in Southern California is definitely risky business. This is because the French dip was born here, most likely at Philippe the Original on the edge of Chinatown in Los Angeles, though Cole’s also claims to be the originator.For more than a century, locals have been taking sides, arguing about the provenance of what’s essentially a sandwich of meat on bread, dipped in au jus — a simple notion in retrospect, not unlike the idea of slathering mustard on a hot dog. But then, culinary icons are often basic, obvious once they’ve become reality. Anyway, the menu at Harlowe’s French Dip in Old Pasadena is built around, obviously, their version of the French dip sandwich. It’s a really good French dip sandwich, served on crusty bread, with lots of well-tended meat, and a tasty au jus in which to soak the whole thing.

(I tend to be a bit gingerly with my au jus, preferring crispy bread, to the sog that follows from too much soaking. I dip rather than immerse. Which may make me wimpy. But so it goes.)It’s also a bit surprising to find that, considering the name of the restaurant, there are only four French dips on the menu — along with 13 non-French dip entrees, a dozen “bar bites” and half a dozen sides. The French dips are a minor player — but they still run the restaurant. Oh, and this is a gastropub as well, with a sizable selection of craft beers on tap and in bottles, and plenty of wines you’ve never heard of. And as far as I can tell, they all go well with the French dips.But to return to the French dips — well, really, how many do you need? What does make sense are the tasty twists and fillips on the menu at Harlowe’s.The slow-roasted pork dip, for instance, comes with a very flavorful smoked ham au jus that adds that much more flavor to the mix. The turkey dip has garlic-Parmesan butter on the bread, and a bacon-turkey au jus for dipping.

And the very tender, very good braised lamb dip comes with a small cup of labneh — Lebanese creamed cheese. good wine to drink with dessertIs it for spreading, or just eating out of the cup? top wine distributors in indiaI don’t know, but it was sure good.buy turning leaf wine online But then, there’s a good deal that’s tasty on the menu, even if it’s very unexpected in a French dip context.best wine tours new zealandWhere the alternative dishes at Philippe are pretty much old-school Americana, what they offer at Harlowe’s is new wave gastropub — which, to confuse things, has deep roots in the past. red wine brands m

Thus, there are fried chicken wings in a tangy sweet and spicy sauce — not Buffalo wings, but still.red wine brands mThere are oysters — raw, grilled and fried. There are “smoky” deviled eggs, Texas toast topped with bone marrow and garlic, and a “beer cheese” spread/dip served with fried garlic bread “mops.” It’s the sort of dish I’d expect to find at a Southern barbecue house — of which there are hints to be found at Harlowe’s. The menu also includes barbecue short ribs, brined fried chicken, a shrimp po’boy and bison chili. There are beignets from New Orleans as well. Also, pastrami on rye. And spaghetti and meatballs.Yes, this is a crazy quilt of a menu that begins with French dip sandwiches and runs wild and amok from there. But even though the sundries on the menu may not seem especially rational, this is Southern California, where we do what we want, and eat what we want. And drink what we want too.

The Firestone Walker Oktoberfest beer is a fine thing, though I fear it may be seasonal. Thankfully, the French dips aren’t seasonal. And though Philippe isn’t far away, Harlowe’s will do you fine, if you’d rather sip on a Beachwood Amalgamator IPA than risk the 110 Freeway.Merrill Shindler is a Los Angeles-based freelance dining critic. .Address: 43 E. Union St., Pasadena.When: Lunch and dinner, every day.PoliticsHow do you think Trump did in his first 100 days in office? Which beer goes with French dip? At Philippe, it's now a serious question There’s a sign hung behind the bustling counter of Philippe the Original (the one true originator of the French dip sandwich, in my mind) that poses a difficult decision to diners: lemonade or iced tea? The retro typefaces and jaunty design of the placard always catch my eye and put me even more in the mood for the delectably soggy sandwiches slathered in piquant mustard, but on a recent visit to the L.A. institution it was an adjacent notice that got me really excited.

A chalkboard posted alongside the menus and neon signs advertised “draft beer,” and it wasn’t just a list of indistinguishable light beer and imported options best ignored in favor of the more refreshing teetotaler options. Six taps were offered alongside a list of boring bottled brews, and though Bud Light received top-billing, there were some honest craft beer options to accompany the legendary sandwiches and splurge-worthy sides. Angeleno IPA from nearby Angel City Brewery would satisfy hop-lovers, Hangar 24’s Orange Wheat was the other locally brewed option, while a pair of beers from Karl Strauss Brewing -- a pale ale and an Irish red ale -- were well suited to the menu, and New Belgium Blue Paddle Pilsner rounded out the tap list. The beers are available in 10- or 16-ounce sizes for $3.90 and $5.95 respectively, and while those are not a bargain on level with 65-cent iced tea, a $6 pint of craft beer is becoming an increasingly rare bird in L.A. restaurants.Which brew should you pair with your French dip sandwich, macaroni salad and chili (with beans)?

Try the pale ale with the turkey or pork sandwiches, but for the traditional beef dip I’d recommend either the Irish red ale or Angeleno IPA (especially if you opt for cheddar cheese or have a heavy hand with the bottles of sinus-blasting mustard). The IPA would also be fantastic beside a lamb dip sandwich with blue cheese -- a personal favorite combination. But my go-to choice overall is the Blue Paddle Pilsner, a light and refreshing Czech-style pils that balances a malty body with a dry finish and hoppy zing. It’s nearly as thirst-quenching as the iced teas or lemonade on offer, and its lively effervescence and bitter finish make it a fabulous brew to match with nearly the whole menu. The pilsner is especially fitting with the rich, creamy side salads and slaws in Philippe’s cases (also, the pickled eggs). Try it beside a turkey dip with Swiss cheese and a paper bowl of potato salad while sitting among the historic photos adorning the eatery’s walls and be transported to a bygone era of Los Angeles.